Friday, June 28, 2019

The Social Dinner, and Other Musings on Italian Eating Prefrences

The routine we have built for ourselves with Cassius are pretty set, and I joke that because of them, we now eat both criminally early and criminally fast.

And these routines were certainly thwarted during our time in Italy.

One of the main reasons was because restaurants don't even open for dinner service until 8 pm, which is generally when we're getting Cass into bed, or, rather, he's normally all done and in his bedroom by himself by 8 pm. Dinner, bath, book time, teeth-brushing, and all night-nights are said before 8.

So we adjusted.

During the conference we had multiple coffee breaks each day, and many were supplied also with fresh pastries of various kinds. The coffee was always in supply, and was always espresso, a tiny shot of black sludge spit out of a Keurig-like machine, one shot at a time.

It started to grow on me, but I still prefer a larger amount of hot liquid. I joked to myself that the reason we took so many breaks was because of the portions:


On one day, since we started late and had to push back the start time for lunch, the start time for the post-lunch activity, a walking tour of the surrounding San Lorenzo neighborhood, was also pushed back. The need for a two-and-a-half hour lunch was paramount.

During the break I went to get groceries for dinner, since after the walking tour I was going to head home, make dinner for the fam, change my clothes, and leave for my own dinner, the Social Dinner, which started at 8. Or, let's say, mustered at 8 and began thereafter.

That dinner itself was at an establishment that, when pointed out to us as the second stop on the walking tour---so we knew where it was---during the day, was shuttered with the normal style of metal faced shutters familiar to bug city folks, and the shutters themselves were covered in graffiti. (Just about every surface is covered in graffiti in Rome.) 

When the place was open at night, the inside was so beautiful and quaint. We took up the majority of the seats, and sat at tables designed as six-tops. That way we got to know the people we were communing with, or got to eat with friends from past events, as many of these people have been coming for years.

One of the gentlemen I sat next to was a professor from Iowa. he read on the first day. He mentioned to me that he hoped he wouldn't have to choose off a menu. I mentioned that my experience in the restaurant industry lead me to believe that we wouldn't be seeing any menus.

The wine came first, in carafes, along with bottled water, both fizzy and still. The table wine was red and very good. Then came the cured meat spread and then cheese spread. There was one type of salami that was the best salami I've ever had in all my forty years.

Next was the crostini plate, each with three enormous pieces of toasted bread. One piece had a compound butter with honey and roasted; another had a flattened sausage patty (exquisite); and the third had a roasted medley of zucchini and summer squash that had been dosed with saffron.

At some point a plate with sauteed greens came, and then another with some kind of half-roasted/half-mashed seasoned potatoes.

The meat dish finally came: each table was given an olive shaped urn with handles the size of a soccer ball with about 70 sticks of tiny sizzling lamb bits. I easily mowed through five sticks, then slowed down for another two before realizing that by then even our table had not even made a dent in the number of meat sticks still available.

The tiramisu was good and the cheesecake was totally different from the cheesecake we make here. Their cheesecake was more of an icebox cake, like tiramisu, than the custard pie we make.

I turned down the espresso. The meat urn didn't hit the table until almost 10. It was glorious.

It was all so glorious.

I love the Italian attitude to eating. I'm trying to figure out how to make it work for us and our own situation. 

Slang Spreading

I mentioned in the previous long post about swashbuckling through some slides, and by that I really just meant that I carried myself with a certain braggadocio, the air of a too-cool teacher from the 'hood. It was a defense mechanism to hide the vulnerability I was feeling. But over time spent with these folks I realized that my personality is just that anyway, just a lower-key version.

At one point during someone's talk I turned to this young Irish lady who teaches at American University in Kirkuk, in the Kudistan region in Iraq, a young lady I got to know rather well as we conversed often and deeply (and whose name I never actually caught), I turned to her and asked what should have been one of the first question you ask anyone there but never do because we just assume, I asked:

"So are you a Pynchon head like the rest of us?"

She made a strange pout and thought for a second, "Um, no, just a reader..." and I could tell she didn't know what I meant. And then she said, "'Head' like, how? Do I love and study the guy?"

I said, "Yeah, yeah, like, do you love the work and search it out and the like..." and then I motioned to the rest of the room, "...most of these folks are scholars, but me, I'm more of a head..."

She smiled and said, "Me, no. Not me. My husband, though, he'd definitely a head," and she laughed halfway through saying the word 'head' in the same way you would if you self-consciously use another culture's slang in the way it's meant to be used even when it's mostly foreign to your normal vernacular.

Overconfident Californians, baby, spreading the Word!

International Pynchon Week, 2019, Rome

This is going to get long and rambling. My apologies. I have a few other posts (that will appear above this one eventually) that are shorter and deal with funny things about the week, but this is the main bulk of the observations I had during the hot days heading to the conference.

***

Sapienza University of Rome was the main host of the four-day long conference, but was far from the only sponsor. To register for the event cost nothing (the social dinner was 30€, and was voluntary), and there was some gear that we were afforded in the process.

But that gear wasn't free for whomever put it together. The university supplied the flimsy style of rucksack that can loosely be called a "backpack," while the Cultural Attache for the US Embassy, the Center for American Studies, and the Irish-American Artistic Association all made other financial contributions that kept us in venues and supplied with plenty instant Keurig-style espresso, pastries, and the occasional food spread.

Everyone who'd registered had name-tags:


And our first venue was the Studieri Amricano Centrale, the Center for American Studies. This was a former palace from the late 18th century retrofitted onto a preexisting 2nd century building of some significance, found on an unassuming street in central Rome.

Enter under those flags on the right in the distance

Used mainly now for its library, it's where Italian students can come to check out periodicals and books in English, and is one of the hubs of Americanist studies in Italy.

It was pretty spectacular for what it was worth. The following is a view from the inner courtyard looking up at our mustering point on that first day:


The couple visible on the right were Aussie, and I only know because the dude is the guy with whom I shared my panel.

From up there looking back down you get this view:


And, lastly, from the inside, we get a mix of the eras, 18th century busts and 21st century HDMI screens:


It was about this time when I began to realize what these events are all about, and why people kept saying things like, "I can't wait to hear your paper."

The vast majority of presentations were given by academics simply reading their dissertations off paper into the mic. More than one were monotone, and more than one were in difficult enoguh to understand accents that lead to the brain wandering.

I looked around at some point and realized a few things:

  1. Just about every single person present held at least one PhD, and most multiple PhDs, which meant---
  2. They all pretty much lived in academia, and for the Europeans with their vastly affordable university meant they were never likely to leave academia, which meant---
  3. Just about every single one of these people DID NOT live in the real world, and, in stark contrast---
  4. I was the only person who DID live in the real world.
I always mean these things in the nicest possible way. 

There's a scene in the movie "Stripes" where one of Bill Murray's fellow grunts says to the drill sergeant, "Yes, sir!" to which the drill sergeant replies, "YOU DON'T CALL ME SIR; I WORK FOR A LIVING." 

I work for a living. That was something on a constant loop in my head.

Nearly all of these folks had PhDs IN PYNCHON! They all had collected at least one, if not multiple, PhD degrees awarded on the merits of their Pynchonian dissertations. 

Which they read into microphones for 20 minutes.

That's how the panels would go: The panel chair would introduce the first speaker---they then would read their paper. The chair would introduce the next speaker, and on it would go for however many speakers a panel would have (they all had two or three). Then the floor was opened for questions and discussions, which were always very spirited and informed. There were a few of these heads who took notes and would ask great probing questions of each and every speaker.

The nuance and probing depth of each person's dissertations blew me away. Out of all the Pynchonian heads out there, these were the tip-toppest of all. 

I made other realizations as the days went on:
  1. These people all probably spent more time considering this man's art than the writer himself;
  2. None of these very fine and intelligent folks ever plan on writing fiction;
  3. I finally came to understand a remark my old friend Pat Yamamoto told me.
I went to high school with Pat Yamamoto, and after fifteen years of no contact, we reconnected on Facebook, and the discourse rounded to who we like to read, as he was an English major at Cal and I liked to read dense content.

When I met my good friend Ryan in the dorms for the first time and in that initial conversation our shared love of baseball became apparent, when he asked me my team, and I told him, he scornfully sneered, "The YANKEES?!?"

That's how I read Pat Yamamoto's response when I mentioned Pynchon. In my head I could hear his voice in his chat bubble, "PYNCHON?!? Only jerkoff academics like Pynchon."

That had been his response---only jerkoff academics like Pynchon. I misunderstood his comment. I thought he was lumping me into a category of reader that was into overly verbose and specifically dense material. What he was talking about was really just a breed of lifetime university student and/or professor.

One gentleman I talked to lived in Bern, Switzerland. He worked occasionally at the uni, and was paid enough for his work that he didn't stress having to work that often. Since school was essentially free, housing and a pensions were guaranteed, and their societal psyche was not cutthroat consumerist social-darwinism, he pretty much wanted for nothing. He and some buddies were working on compiling and conducting an album of Pynchonian music, he was working on his third PhD, he was thinking of starting an magazine or newspaper. That last part, though, may not work out, he said, because he was going to have to raise about a million Swiss-Francs (their currency), which is not insignificant.

But he didn't have any kids or a wife, so...and he kinda shrugged. 

To me it sounded like he didn't have any real stakes, either, and without real stakes with heavy risks, how do you validate the accomplishments?

I came to know lots of these folks, through their papers and through conversation, and they were all very pleasant and supportive, and nobody was there to shit on anyone else. They all wanted to help each other see new things, or thank someone for opening their eyes to a new angle.

I told them I worked in education, but not like them. They liked my stories, or at least recognized that what I talked about was way more real and terrifying than anything their days brought them. Early on, they didn't quite know what to make of me.

One hindrance was that my working knowledge of the minutiae of Pynchon material was far below everyone else's, since I haven't read the first eight of nine books in ten years.

The second day was at the Marco Polo building in the San Lorenzo area of Rome, just about a mile from our place. Unlike the Center for American Studies, it was in a former postal depot, and kinda felt like it. This is where I was going to speak, on Day 3.

They had a neat full size recreation of an ancient library with local history translated into three local languages that was discovered in the 1920s, but eventually lost forever some time later because of shoddy management:


The first room we were in was massive with comfortable chairs, but the tech never worked properly, so moved next door. Here's the poster on the door for the cavernous room, Aula Magna:


When my turn finally came, I had to make peace with myself: I knew I wasn't as prepared as everyone else, and I had a totally different approach, with no quotes from pages, with no underlying point about hierarchical gothicism (or whatever other bullshit phrase I heard over the course of the week) I was trying to make and then defend---I was simply there to talk about which ladies reminded me of which other ladies.

The night before I even changed the ending of the PowerPoint, because I knew I needed to keep some dignity. I could swashbuckle my way through conversations, and even some underdeveloped slides, but I needed a better ending. I went with: in my position as an adult in a room full of minors, I need to look at every aspect of the things I like about an artist, and, with this artist, can we say anything about his true feelings on women based on his art? Do his true feelings even matter? That's an everyday reckoning someone in my position has to make. 

And I figured that out about four seconds before I said it. The reckoning part, not the "true feelings based on art" part---that was the night before.

My panel, before I spoke

Like the Lorax, who speaks for the trees, I, Sherweezy, speak for the heads. I speak for the heads to the scholars.


And that ultimately was what I realized: I was a Pynchon-head among Pynchon-scholars.


A good question was asked of me when the conversation came around, and I got to share a little of my own thoughts on this specific topic. The question was from a nice German kid who is both a math scholar and a Pynchon scholar (we talked for a while): he asked how come the girls always go for the bad-boys. My response was this: boys who get labeled as "bad" do so early enough in America that it happens to be before they are necessarily romantically invested in girls. It is also these confident and occasionally overzealous boys who actually have the courage to talk to girls, thereby giving the girls attention. The "nice" boys chill on the sidelines grumbling about 'how come she likes that jerk' without ever going over to talk to her. The "bad" boys are the only ones who talk to girls early on, and that builds confidence, which brings along more girls, and the feedback cycle has started.

On the last day, before multiple people came to talk to me about how much they liked my talk and to thank me for the work I do, I realized something else: I identify as a Pynchonian-author, while these fine and brilliant folks identify as Pynchonian-scholars, and that approach shades our very approach to the writer.

That last day saw the third one of us from Southern California talk, a young dark-skinned dude of Indian sub-continent descent who works as a professor at Concordia University, a Christian college in Irvine. His paper was on, essentially, "is Pynchon really a lefty-leaning guy, and lets's dive deep into his critique of American conservatism by repeatedly calling it fascism."

Readers of Pynchon would say YES to the first and If we must, to the second. He was engaging and interesting and had some neat things to say. I got the sense that he himself was conservative, and was trying to square his love for Pynchon with his personal politics. 

A question was asked of him about the change in tone from Gravity's Rainbow to Vineland, and his response was that it was the specific focus on domesticity in Vineland as opposed to the global conflict in GR that gives us a different facet of Pynchon's beliefs about facism and American conservatism.

My response to that specific question, because I got asked a form of that question (GR to Vineland differences) was shared by very few people, but was more like this: the change in style, the change in tone, the change in respect towards women, all stem from an artist maturing, not from a convoluted rendering of a static POV on one thing.

That's what was tough for me near the end. My approach is, I guess, holistic, or humanist, but I look at the art and the artist in the context of them creating the art. Most of these folks most certainly never consider the context of the creator---they only focus on the creations and the details therein.

On the last day, after we had all mostly said our goodbyes, I left the building with the third guy from LA, a book critic writing for the LA Times (closer to the real world). He was older than me but younger than my dad, white with white hair, and tall, like 6'3". We'd talked on the first day after he read a piece he wrote about Pynchon and Death; we talked about LAUSD, the strike, Measure EE and its failure to gain the 2/3 required majority.

That last day, as we left together, he said that he was so angry that he'd missed my talk the previous day, and that he'd grown jealous by everyone gushing to him about how great it was. We joked that we may be hosting the next one. I told him I wasn't against it, but I don't have the ear of any local English department faculties in the Southland. He mentioned Jonathan Lethem works at Claremont, and if we could get him, maybe we could make it happen. Lethem is well-known author in his own right and has previously professed his, eh, admiration(?) for Pynchon, so, maybe I'll be WAY more involved next go around?

With that conversation ending abruptly as the dude had to cross the street to catch a metro back to his hotel and I was walking back to our apartment, the whirlwind seems to fade. Four days had weighed so heavily on my brain for months; from before Winter Break, from before the strike, from before the HoR shenanigans, my presentation had been a millstone. I never felt like I could carve enough time to put brain energy towards it, especially as it got closer and disallowed me the excitement that usually grows when a crazy trip is planned and the days get closer to departure.

I was finally excited for trip, but, like the day before we left, once my slides were done.

Anyway, it was awesome and stressful and a fat learning experience. Walking back to the apartment, getting ready to finish packing and getting ready to leave the next morning for points south, I really started to feel the "vacation" aspect of this trip.

***

That was kind of a rambling mess, I know. I may go back and change some of it later, after reading it.

Corrie and Cass and Lola had made their way to my talk, entered the room right as I started, and Corrie filmed as much as the Boy would allow. That was sweet, and meant a lot to me. They are my connection to the World of the Real.

People were very kind in their words to me in the two days after I went, more kind than I thought I'd earned, but, you know---we're hardest on ourselves...

The Days Before the Conference

Our official Day One was an unplanned walkabout day, where the four of us just went strolling around our neighborhood. Our phones were of little use at this moment, as we needed wifi for them to work, but for some reason the maps seemed to be able to keep track of our whereabouts (um...thanks GPS?).

It was hot. Hot and muggy. As a quick aside: it was hot the entire goddamned time, hitting at least 90 everyday of the seventeen days we were over there, in all places and phases of the trip.

Anyway, on that first sweaty day we made it all the way to the Colosseum, which was, naturally, packed with tourists. Our place was maybe a fifteen minute walk from the site, but in our roundabout way we spent the better part of an afternoon walking there.



Proof, in the realistic event he doesn't remember

I love, and sorely miss, subways
Afterwards I got groceries and made dinner, using the sleek alley to get over to the grocers, Carre4:

The alley

The next day was Cass's birthday, and again we went out walking, but without Lola this time.

I already showed some of the best pictures, but here are some more, one from the Spanish Steps, three-quarters of the ways up:


And from one of the gates of the Villa Burghesia, a former front-yard(?) of an enormously wealthy person that's now a park:

This was a Monday, and my conference started the next day, so this was really my last day getting to do touristy things with the fam. It was nice, and it was hot, but work was looming.

Day Zero: Long Beach to Roma

The last few days leading up to the flight to Rome were hectic.

Both Corrie and I had our own stuff going on (her-getting one set of drawings ready to go to bid and another set ready to go to the city)(me-administering and grading finals, getting grades in) and together we had non-trip related stuff going on (breaking down the apartment for roach fumigation).

On top of that was trip shenanigans: securing AirBnBs, cars, trips, packing for us and for the Boy, collecting Lola from LAX, and finishing my presentation, which was to be given in less than a week.

All in all we did okay.

Day Zero

As always, with trips of a flying nature, especialy overseas trips, my narratives start with day zero discussions. This is the fuzzy arrival day and what happens-when-you-get-there kind of stuff.

I finished packing the morning we were set to leave, driving Corrie nuts, and she was off to work to finalize a few things. Eventually we got everything packed, everything loaded in my car and it off to our friend's condo where they were going to let us leave it parked in their guest parking area (Thanks Stephan and Julie!).

Note to self: flights over twelve hours with a toddler are too much. Of the flight I have this to say: it was twelve hours of our lives and it ended, and that's that. He slept for about three hours, Corrie for about thirty minutes, and me--nothing. Lola slept plenty.

The taxi from the airport to our apartment cost 50€, and Cass sat between Corrie and Lola in the backseat sans carseat. When in Rome, am I right?

We arrived at the apartment about 6am our body's time, but locally in the hottest part of the afternoon, seemingly. That first day and night was mostly terrible---fitful sleep broken up by Cass's waking and joining us shenanigans, and also his need for food at inopportune times for through-night sleeping.

Wild dreams were had in random minutes of slumber.

The next day was a walkabout day.

Outside our place in the San Giovanni district, inside the old walls:


The view from the kitchen of our Roman apartment, a three-bedroom place:


il nostro Italiano Viaggio: An Introduction

Back in 2017, in La Rochelle, an Atlantic coastal city in France, saw the 2017 edition of International Pynchon Week, a week-long celebration of my favorite author, Thomas Pynchon.

I though it would have been coo to go, but that summer already had our little and young family heading to New York for the Grandpa Tom deal at Uncle Tom's, and an overseas flight and trip was out of the question. I even joked to Norm that at some point in the future we should get out shit together and head over to one of the bi-annual meetings.

Sometime early last year it was announced that Rome would host the 2019 edition, and the call went out for submissions of papers or presentations. That specific call came in February, with a deadline of August 31st. My plan, as I may have stated before, was to send of a proposal that was to be rushed and of possibly low-ish quality in an attempt to get my name in the mix for possibly 2021 or 2023.

After a few beers on August 29th I wrote up the ideas I had and emailed it off. A few weeks later I was notified that it was accepted.

That mostly sealed the deal. We started planning the trip. And by that, I mean Corrie started planning the trip. The conference was to be directly after my year ended and would encompass Cass's third birthday. We would take along with us our 14 year old niece Lola. As we looked at airline tickets and plans, we decided to do a week in Rome, a week on Sicily, and a few days in Naples to check out Pompeii and the Amalfi coast.

That was the general plan. It's all done now, and starting to take on the dream-like quality of all grand voyages in time.

So...the impetus:


And, the quote from Hank Scorpio flowed through my head most of the time: "Heh heh. Nobody ever says Italy":


Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Third Birthday Out of Pocket

We made it back safely from our adventure to Italy and Sicily, which I'll be getting to here soon.

But Cass had his birthday the day before my conference started, and we went to the Spanish Steps and then walked around one of the parks up above the steps, on the way to an aborted trip to the Roman Zoo. It was a hell of a walk in the sultry Roman summer.

Here he is enjoying birthday gelato:


Three years old. No party at the park to plan and supply with gear. Just me, Corrie and the Boy.


Rome turns out to be one of the cities I could live in.


I look a little too much like my Grandpa Tom in this picture, a Spanish Steps birthday selfie. But before he changed his shirt.

Happy Birthday, Cassius, two weeks later. Love you boy!